Snap off snap off several layers of the tough outer leaves by pulling them downward so that they break off at the base. Stop when the inner leaves become a lighter yellowish green and look tender. Trim the stem and slice off the top third of the artichoke. With a paring knife, smooth the rough areas around the base, removing any dark green parts. Cut the trimmed artichoke into quarters. Remove the fuzzy chokes of mature artichokes with a paring knife. (Babies don't have chokes.) Place artichokes in bowl with juice of 1 lemon and enough water to cover. (If using larger artichokes, trim and quarter them, then remove chokes.)

When all are done, drop them into pan of boiling water with juice of second lemon and simmer until tender-firm, about 10 minutes. Drain.

Just before sauteing, slice them lengthwise in half or thirds. (If using larger artichokes, parboil quarters, then thinly slice them.) Chop parsely with garlic and zest; set aside.

Heat oil in large skillet over fairly high heat. Add artichokes and saute until they begin to color in places, after several minutes. Add green onions and wine. When wine boils off, 2 to 3 minutes, add 1 cup water or chicken broth and half parsley mixture and tarragon. Lower heat and simmer until artichokes are fully tender, about 5 minutes, then add rest of herbs and season with salt and pepper. Tip artichokes, with their juices, onto serving plate.

This recipe yields 4 to 6 servings.

Each of 6 servings: 138 calories; 205 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 2.06 grams fiber.

Comments: So-called "baby artichokes" are the buds that grow at the shady base of the plant, away from the sun that makes them grow large. Their choke isn't developed, which makes preparation go quickly. I particularly enjoy this saute on toast or pasta, with thin shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. The artichokes can be cooked hours ahead of their final saute. You can substitute 4 or 5 medium artichokes.